ANATOMICA and Ramie: A Story Spun from Connections in Paris

Old kimono do not always come with clear records of their origin or the era in which they were made.

Even so, Ms. Usami explores the time these fabrics have traveled by touching them and cross-referencing her findings with the words of those who came before.

And these activities of Ms. Usami’s eventually led to a connection with Pierre Fournier, who has long led ANATOMICA in Paris.

 

—— How do the fabrics differ depending on their region of origin?

The differences in fabrics from different regions aren't certain enough to be put into words.

Because kimono have no quality labels, I spend my days feeling the fabric against my skin and cross-referencing it with the knowledge passed down from our predecessors.

But no one will give me the answers.

That is the case for many of these fabrics.

—— When did this connection between you and ANATOMICA begin?

When the company I used to work for launched a new brand, there was talk of wanting to do ANATOMICA.

I was the one tasked with timidly reaching out to Pierre in Paris.

The Hemisphère store was so stylish, after all.

It was a brand that buyers at the time admired as well.

Pierre himself remembers it, saying, "Mademoiselle Usami was my very first customer in Japan."

I never imagined that, through many twists and turns, things would end up like this.

 

—— And later, you reconnected with Pierre through ramie.

When I returned to Paris in 2023, I ran into Pierre by chance at Le Baratin.

His partner had been showing him my Instagram.

I heard later that the first thing Pierre said when he saw the KI-SIÈCLE Instagram was "Pas mal."

It means something like "Not bad," but for him, it’s a form of praise.

I was told it was a reaction that showed he was truly interested.

With that, he learned and remembered the word "karamushi" (ramie).

During that stay in Paris, I showed him some samples I had with me, and the orders I received were the start of it all.

It seems Pierre wanted to strengthen the ANATOMICA PARIS women’s line at the time, so he placed orders for models and sizes suited for women.

Things like work coats, jackets, wrap pleated skirts, and shirt dresses.

—— What kind of relationship did you develop with Pierre after that?

Actually, at first, I was running away from him.

His partner would frequently contact me saying, "Let’s go eat!" but I didn't know what to talk about.

But one time, we ran into each other at a vintage clothing store.

That was when Pierre said to me, "Mademoiselle Noriko, won't you work with me?"

I didn't understand what he meant by "work with me," so I replied, "Of course! With pleasure! What should I do?"

And he said,

"Show me your clothes."

From there, it was decided that my clothes would be sold at his shop in Paris.

When I first thought about making clothes out of old Japanese fabrics, I didn't have Pierre in mind from the start.

He is a person I hold in such high regard.

But now, I believe I must listen to those who came before me as much as I can.

I feel that if I can learn from Pierre, I must.

For example, he’ll look at the shape of a jacket and say, "If it were me, I’d do it like this."

Though, we do occasionally end up fighting over clothes at vintage shops.

Connections are truly mysterious things.

 

—— How do you feel about having made a DOLMAN out of ramie fabric for ANATOMICA KYOTO?

The DOLMAN shape is entirely French-made, isn't it?

So, I feel that being entrusted with that pattern is a significant honor.

It’s as if I’ve been entrusted with a pattern he hasn't shared with anyone else.

I truly feel I’ve been blessed with a wonderful connection.

I hope to carry on Pierre's spirit and help spread it together with everyone.

 

—— Finally, how do you hope to preserve ramie moving forward?

I’m thinking of creating designs where, if the fabric is prone to tearing or has small damages, I line the underside with another fabric so it can be worn as is, even if it tears, even if it becomes tattered.

Like, even if it rips, just keep wearing it.

For example, a "tattered version" of the DOLMAN.

Since these fabrics are 100 years old, you can’t wear them roughly, but people inevitably carry shoulder bags and such.

So, I think that kind of approach is fine too.

Not just preserving them in pristine condition, but wearing them, letting them tear, and repairing them.

That way, they get passed on to the next person.

I hope that in this way, this fabric will survive for another 100 years.

 

KI-SIÈCLE Ramie Order Event

2026.9/11(FRI)-9/13(SUN)
in ANATOMICA KYOTO 

To commemorate the 2nd anniversary of ANATOMICA KYOTO, we will be holding a KI-SIÈCLE ramie order event from Friday, September 11th to Sunday the 13th, with Ms. Noriko Usami in attendance.

Ramie fabric that has survived over 100 years and remains with us today.

As Ms. Usami engages with each piece, the clothes she tailors each possess their own unique history and character.

This is a special opportunity not only for semi-orders of the DOLMAN and ARTHUR models, but also to view items from KI-SIÈCLE.

We invite you to touch the fabric, listen to Ms. Usami’s stories, and choose a piece to spend the next 100 years with.

We look forward to seeing you at the shop.